So - what can go wrong and what can best be done to maintain the original and unique quality of Whitechapel handbells?
These notes are set out to be used as a guide to the maintenance of Whitechapel handbells, and we hope they will give some insight into the procedures involved. They are not a complete guide as some techniques can only be acquired through experience, and other methods may be employed, but they represent our guide to the way in which we feel maintenance should be undertaken.
The basic tools required - a hammer, a file, a pair of pliers - will be found in most toolboxes in the home. Many of the procedures require the use of a vice; access to a grindstone and a drill can be helpful but are not absolutely essential.
Conscious of the specialized nature of parts manufactured by us for our bells, we now have available a "Handbell First Aid Kit" which contains all the necessary parts and specialized tools to undertake the servicing of the inside assembly which are possible with basic skills.
Details and order form are given on a separate sheet.
For those who wish to undertake more major work such as the fitting and stiffening of leather handles, details of the extra tools required and a basic instruction to the method is given herewith. We do not, however, regard the fitting of these items as "First Aid" and therefore, parts for this work are not included in the above kit.
All handbell parts may be purchased from:
Whitechapel Bell Foundry Ltd.,
After many years of use, a professional re-polish will restore the bells to an as new condition.
Handbell castings are necessarily thin and brittle and will break if dropped or roughly treated.
CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN WITH THE USE OF MALLETS, AND VERY THICK FOAM SHOULD BE USED FOR MARTELLATO TECHNIQUES.
If a Whitechapel handbell becomes cracked, then the best solution is to have it recast or replaced.
The solution is to replace them, and the procedure is quite simple. When a pad falls off or needs replacing due to wear, carefully unscrew the entire clapper assembly from the bell. Never do this by holding the top of the clapper flight, but grasp the base of the staple either with the fingers or with pliers. Hold the bell still by the handle and turn the assembly to loosen. It is best to work on the felts without the clapper in the way, so gently tap out the staple pin to remove it and place it and the clapper to one side.
If there is any residue of sealing wax (or glue) on the springs, remove it with a sharp knife and lightly roughen the surface with a file. Holding the staple by the end screw with a pair of pliers, gently heat the spring over a flame. At Whitechapel, we use a Bunsen burner. (A gas ring or lighter will work well. A candle flame gives a sooty residue and is not recommended.) After 20-40 seconds depending on the gauge of the spring, remove from the heat and gently but firmly wipe the stick of sealing wax over the surface where the felt is to be positioned. Ensure a good coverage and quickly and accurately put the felt pad in place and press firmly. Hold tightly with the fingers pressing above the felt. REMEMBER the metal spring and indeed the whole fitting will be HOT so continue to hold with the pliers. Sealing wax sets almost instantly. After a few seconds let go of the felt and it should be firmly stuck to the spring. If there is any excess sealing wax this can be easily removed with a sharp knife. When cool, using a sharp knife trim the edge of the felt in a neat curve at its lower end to allow the clapper spade to move freely. Reassemble the clapper with the staple pin and screw the assembly back into the handbell.
Because the springs are riveted, the most major job in this case is the removal of the old rivet. Firstly remove the inside assembly from the bell and remove the clapper by tapping out the staple pin. The old rivet(s) must then be removed. This can be done either by hand filing, or holding against a grindstone to grind off the end. Once filed level with the spring, hold the staple in a vice and knock out the rivet using a suitable punch. This can take some considerable force. Once out, because the rivet holds both springs to the staple, both are removed. If one remains undamaged it may be reused, but it is more usual to replace a pair of springs at a time. To re-fit, for a quick repair and if no one has any knowledge of riveting, use screw bolts with washers each side and a nut, bolting through both springs and tightening with a spanner. This is a reasonably effective repair, but the bolts will gradually loosen with the vibrations of the bell and will need tightening regularly. The end of the screw may be peened over to prevent loosening, but a permanent repair is effected by riveting using mild steel rivets. Done correctly, no looseness will occur. The springs should then be carefully adjusted to suit the bell by gently bending outward from the staple. Care should be exercised when bending the larger springs as they require some force. Replace the clapper by driving in the staple pin and re-fit the complete assembly to the bell. Final adjustment of the springs should then be made to produce the desired striking action.
The split ball clappers unscrew, and the worn felt disc can be replaced with new of the correct size. The ball is then simply screwed back together.
The clapper balls from 25G upwards are all threaded, and if pegs are worn, remove by unscrewing the leather/nylon/polythene and replace with new of equivalent size. A possible problem occurs if the end of the clapper peg breaks off in the ball. This can either be picked out using tweezers or similar, or alternatively by drilling through with a hand or electric drill, using a bit of smaller diameter than the hole. This should remove enough of the material to enable the rest to be brushed out without damaging the thread.
If the end of the peg to be screwed in has a touch of petroleum jelly or similar applied, then it is easier to start it turning in the clapper ball. Because of the nature of the leather, it takes up the thread as it is turned in. Once in firmly, the pegs need to be trimmed to ensure a good sound. They need to be contoured to fit the bell in two directions both to the radius and the vertical surfaces.
This should be done with care, using a sharp knife and paring away the leather until the desired effect is achieved when striking the bell.
Polythene and nylon pegs are supplied threaded and are screwed into place. They should also be trimmed using a sharp knife and nicely rounded to fit the contour of the bell.
Felts are supplied ready cut to shape and with a small slit cut in the center. Waxed thread is also supplied for tying the felts in place.
Place the slit in the center of the felt over the clapper flight. Pull down the ends of the felt over the ends of the clapper pegs and one person then grips the ends TIGHTLY against the clapper stem.
The second person should then make a double twist loop in the center of the thread, place over the covering felt at point 1 and secure tightly by pulling the thread on both sides of the loop. The first pair of hands may now let go!
Make a similar loop and tighten at point 2. Repeat to point 3.
Take the thread across to point 4 and cross the threads over.
Make a double twist loop and tighten at point 5, then finish off with a reef knot at point 6.
Neatly trim off the surplus felt and thread, leaving the new felt bound tightly around the pegs.
Drawing of only the Clapper head and stem
Remedy: Fit new pegs and covering felts where necessary
Check springs. Look for any obvious cracking around the rivet point. If significant 'give' becomes apparent in a spring then this may be a sign that the spring is weakening.
Remedy: Replace BEFORE that important concert or else the breakage is bound to happen during it!
Noisy clapper action? Check the clapper for looseness which could indicate wear of the pin or the clapper.
Remedy: Two to four times per year, depending upon how often the bells are used, apply a tiny drop of oil to either side of the clapper where it lies in the jaws of the staple. Be very sparing and we recommend the use of a wire or stick dipped in oil. Excess oil will simply run down the clapper, staining the felts and also attracting dirt which will stick and tend to stiffen the bearing. Work the oil in by ringing a few times with the bell mouth up. Most of the noise problems associated with rattling clappers will cease with this treatment.
Excessive side play requires the attention of a specialist and is sometimes a problem after a long period of use. Bells with a great deal of rattle and side play are in need of major servicing and we recommend that they receive expert attention.
Although not common practice in England, the wearing of cotton gloves in America is widespread. This does keep much of the dirt off the handles, but the leather will gradually darken on exposure to light.
Natural greases from ungloved hands do no harm, although they accelerate the darkening of the leather.
No applications of any kind are necessary to dress the handles for maintenance purposes.
Leather ages naturally and the handles will give a long life if the bells are held and stored correctly.
The handles should always be held at the top just under the cap, and the bells should ideally be stored in "purpose made" fitted boxes or cases and kept in cool, dry conditions.
Handles incorrectly held may crack and eventually break in line with the top of the shank.
Temporary repair in an emergency may be effected by binding the breaking point with tape. Long term repair involves the removal of the old and fitting of a new handle.
The initial fitting of stiffened handles when the bells are new will obviously give an even longer life and consideration may be given to this at the outset of purchase. Handles which become soft and floppy with age and use can subsequently be stiffened to prolong their life.
PLEASE PROCEED WITH GREAT CAUTION! LACK OF SKILL AND CARE WHEN RIVETING THE HANDLE CAN CAUSE CRACKING OR BREAKAGE OF THE SHANK FROM THE BELL, RESULTING IN THE LOSS OF THE BELL.
Tools required: A heavy block or anvil with a smooth face on top, about 3" square.
A light hammer with a head of about 4 oz and a slightly heavier one,
of about 8 - 12 oz
A hollow flat punch to take the largest rivet.
A domed punch to finish off the rivet.
1) Remove the old handle, either by filing off the rivet or cutting between the handle and shank with a small hacksaw.
2) Handles are supplied flat, complete with copper rivet(s). To bend the handle, dampen approximately 1" in the center with cold water, avoiding wetting the marked notes. Gently draw the handle into the desired shape. Leave to dry in the bent shape.
3) Carefully pare the ends of the handle to fit snugly onto the cap.
4) Mark the handle from the hole in the shank. Punch holes with a hollow punch or drill through, making the holes a fraction higher so as to draw the handle closely down onto the cap as the rivet is pushed through.
5) Nip the excess length of the rivet to approximately 3/16" to 1/4", then press the washer down using a medium hammer and a hollow punch.
6) With light hammer, peen down the end of the rivet, supporting the bell against your body and with the shank ABSOLUTELY LEVEL on the heavy block or anvil.
7) Finish off the rivet both sides with medium hammer and domed punch, then press the ends of the handle firmly home to the shank using a piece of wood and a hammer.
PLEASE TAKE CARE! IF YOU DO NOT POSSESS THE NECESSARY SKILLS, IT IS BETTER TO CONSULT AN EXPERT THAN TO RISK BREAKING YOUR BELL.
Select a narrow wooden wedge, approximately 1 1/2" deep increasing to 2" deep. Place a leather stiffener within the handle and check for correct size of insert and wedge. Take out and roughen both sides of the leather insert. Apply an impact adhesive to the faces and bottom of the insert, and to the corresponding parts of the handle and shank. Leave for approximately 10 minutes, following directions for the particular brand of adhesive.
Place the insert into position as quickly as possible, then drive firmly down onto the shank by pushing the wedge through the open loop of the handle.
The insert MUST be fitted tightly down onto the shank to serve its purpose of stiffening the handle. Clamp the handle and insert firmly together, using protection between the handle and clamp to avoid marking the leather. Leave to dry.
Remove the wedge and punch the position of the screw nails with a scriber and hammer, as follows:
All four corners, both sides, for bells from 29C up to 12F sharp (8 nails).
Top and bottom center, both sides, for bells from 11G up to 01C (4 nails).
Hammer the screw nails into marked positions.
Trim both the edges to a nice smooth finish using a sharp knife and glass paper.
This compact kit contains all the specialized parts and tools required to undertake the basic maintenance of your Whitechapel handbells.
CONTENTS
Spare set of springs for each size of bell together with nuts, bolts and rivets to allow a choice of fastenings.
Felt spring pads and sealing wax.
PTFE lengths in various diameters to cut for staple pins.
Leather, polythene, and nylon clapper pegs to the range of bells.
Covering felts and waxed thread ties.
Specialist tools included: Heavy punch, spanner to fit bolts provided, craft knife.
Price for 5 octave set: US$270.00
Price for 4 octave set: US$195.00
Price inclusive of packing and shipping.
Please supply: Whitechapel Handbell First Aid Kit(s)
5 Octaves 4 Octaves
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